Important French Watch!?

Tuesday, December 24, 2024

The LIP Cosmic with the electric caliber R27 should be one of the most important (French) watches of the last 100 years, you ask? Yes, probably. And this becomes clear when you see the lavish execution of the heavy gold-case, the beautiful dial, the handmade Hermes leather-box -- they knew it is a milestone and were so proud -- and the innovations it had and how they influenced some of the most important watches in history later-on: I am sure you will be surprised. Before mentioning the design-elements and who was influenced by these it might make sense to point out that the LIP R27 was presented to the public just weeks after the Hamilton cal500 -- the first electric watch-movement. But in a direct comparison to the some weeks earlier finished cal500-developement by Hamilton the LIP is by far superior: the movement is quite stable and lacks several disadvantages and fragile elements of the hasty presented Hamilton and even more it is relatively robust and repairable. And this is the comparison just on the movement level -- the quality of the case is just like a different world: low to medium quality of the Hamilton with a comparatively thin case usually gold-filled or in 14K solid gold (18K is existent but not more often around than a unicorn) vs the heavy and solid high-quality case of the LIP in either steel or 18K rose- or yellowgold.

So, yes the LIP Cosmic is not only a design-milestone but a very influential role model for not just one but a complete series of later horological super-important watches -- and here is the (probably not final, but nevertheless very impressive) list:

  • Bulova Accutron (1961) used the battery compartment similar accessible by the small lid and also used a very similar mechanism for the setting-crown on the case back (backwinder!) -- and the Bulova cal214 Accutron is not any other watch-movement but the 1st electronic: a true horological milestone and very important.
  • ELGIN 725 ELECTRIC (1963);
  • Universal Geneve PoleRouter Electric (1963) used the flash-formed counter-weight on the seconds-hand to proudly state that the pole-route-pilot doesn't have to shake his arm to charge the mainspring of his automatic, anymore; which is not without danger when controlling an airplane;
  • TIMEX LACO 84 ELECTRIC (1965);
  • Longines Ultra-Quartz cal6512 (Aug 1969): the first cybernetic, ie. quartz-corrected tuningfork-watch used as well a separate battery-compartment and the same "backwinder"-mechanism for the setting crown. The first wristwatch that made use of quartz -- not as a beatmaker but a corrector, but anyway: super-important.
  • Seiko 35SQ Astron (Dec 1969): Yes, not only the 1st true quartzwatch used the separate-accessible battery-compartment in a similar way the LIP Cosmic introduced / invented it more than 10 years before, but also the Japanese inventors of the first quartz-watch were obviously very inspired by the monocoque-case the French design-specialists created in 1958, already: and so Seiko adopted it for the #horologicalMilestone Seiko cal35 Astron.

Lip: Inspiring! There is probably no other description for the so far a bit overlooked high-quality innovation from France.